Idyllic Thai
It is in deep solitude that I find the gentleness with which I can truly love my brothers. The more solitary I am the more affection I have for them. Solitude and silence teach me to love my brothers for what they are, not for what they say.
– Thomas Merton
Back to Thailand
I arrived back to Malaysia from Indonesia on an Air Asia flight. I was content to ride a quick flight back to George Town. It was easy, convenient, and fast. The 45 minute flight from Medan to Penang beat out another nine-hour ferry.
In downtown Penang, Malaysia, I stood chatting with a Dutch couple before rewatching the movie Talladega Nights (a movie where I missed the first 10 minutes the last time at the same cinema, and subsequently missed the same first 10 minutes the second time), when they mentioned another option. “Why don’t you go to Koh Tarutao National Park and the island of Koh Lipe? No one is there. No one. And it’s beautiful.”, they inquired.
Panoramic View from Koh Lipe
That single suggestion piqued my interest and transported me to Koh Lipe, deep in the secluded south of Thailand, distant from the crowded islands of Phuket or Koh Samui. I skipped easy travel, left the beaten path, and followed the less traveled route. I previously considered a visit to Koh Tarotao National Park, but figured, with limited time and my quick trip to Indonesia, I’d be ready for a break. Yet my conscience wouldn’t allow me to let this opportunity to pass by when I could have another adventure into the unknown with a few compelling stories to tell. Also, who knows when will be the next time I would be in Thailand.
Seated with another Dutch couple and their two-year old daughter at the back of the public bus from Hat Yai to the coastal town of Pak Bara, jumping off point to Koh Tarotao National Park, we pondered the solitude of these far-flung islands.
The Secluded Island of Koh Lipe
The next morning, a local family placed me at the front of their longboat for the four-hour journey across the Andaman Sea to Koh Lipe. I sat back the entire time soaking in the setting of small islands and flying fish joining jumping the waves off of the bow. Mean looking rain clouds sat directly in front of our destination, so we were under a time constraint. Simply arrive before the rain. As we approached the coral edge and the pristine white beach yards away, a different set of storm clouds hit us directly with fat drops of rain.
View Out My Thai Bungalow
For the next three days, I ambled around the pint-sized island of Koh Lipe, populated with a spattering of Thais and backpackers simply enjoying rise and fall of the tide, eating at the exclusive restaurant, Pooh’s, while trading a few improvements to their website in exchange for food and Beer Changs. I can officially state that I am working my way around the world. With that busy schedule, I managed to squeeze in snorkelling time on four of the beaches surrounding this tiny island.
Unfortunately, there are a few problems on Koh Lipe. It was an isolated island within a protected national park, but years ago it had been opened up to construction. As the dribble of backpackers that discovered the hideout converted to a steady flow, the development to bungalows grew. Combine this growth with the lack of waste management facilities, the Andean Sea and its submerged coral are treated as a dumping ground resulting is dead coral and trashed beaches. Nevertheless and similar to my arrival, Koh Lipe beaches are cleaned to an immaculate state for locals and travelers alike.
Koh Lipe
We’ve Got a Thai Ferry Down!
After a peaceful and relaxing three days at Koh Lipe, Nadine’s arrival required that I jump on a ferry back to peninsular Thailand. As bright blue water replete with massive jellyfish glided by, the engine abruptly stopped. The ferry came to a gradual, bobbing halt. Over an hour, we sat watching the long, swinging tentacles of very large jellyfish float by forcing me to reconsider my strong desire to cannonball into the sea. Mechanics worked in vain. The engine had met its fate. Finally, another ferry rescued and towed us at the speed of racing snail to harbor. This little roadblock allowed the storm clouds from three days ago to double of their efforts and rain on us again as we pulled up to dock.
Ferry Towing Ferry
There’s nothing like a long-boat ride and wet clothes and backpacks to cause a group of eight farang (foreigners) to bond. As a result, we shared a van to Trang splitting our snacks and drinks. Like the floating jellyfish from earlier in the day, we floated around Trang’s markets and streets searching for more nourishment until we found an outdoor Thai restaurant where we again shared an assortment of local Thai dishes. The adventure of travel.
Tomorrow morning, after a two-week hiatus to be with her family, Nadine will fly back to Krabi where my open arms will welcome her at the airport with, yes, a kool-aid smile. Hard to believe, but we have already traveled, to the day, 4 months. As always, life is good, real good, and about to get better.
Last week’s trivia question was: What is the fifth most populous country in the world. Answer, Brazil.
Life is good. Hope all are healthy and happy.
Peace
J.W.
When you have once seen the glow of happiness on the face of a beloved person, you know that a man can have no vocation but to awaken that light on the faces surrounding him; and you are torn by the thought of the unhappiness and night you cast, by the mere fact of living, in the hearts you encounter.
– Albert Camus
